Best Bloomers to Plant Now for Showy Seedheads Next Year

Allium schubertii puts on a show even after the growing season is over with its Star-Wars-inspired growth habit.

September and October are prime months for planting spring-blooming bulbs and summer-blooming poppy seeds in Colorado. With this in mind, you may want to consider installing bulbs and poppies that produce not only stunning flowers, but also decorative seedheads. That way, you can bring the seedheads inside and enjoy them during fall and winter.

 Some of my favorite plants for their showy dried seedheads:

Ornamental onions, including Allium schubertii, A. ‘Globemaster,’ and A. aflatunense ‘Purple Sensation.’ All of these varieties are sun-loving and drought-tolerant. Globemaster is sterile, whereas schubertii and purple sensation are spreaders.

Allium schubertii is a rose-purple show-stopper with dramatic spikes, resembling a Star Wars character. This easy-to-grow plant blooms in late spring and reaches about two feet high, which includes its 14-inch-wide seedhead. I wonder what it would look like with holiday lights on it. Too much? Maybe.

Allium ‘Globemaster’ is a lavender beauty that grows about 18 to 30 inches high and 12 to 18 inches wide, and will tolerate part shade.

Purple sensation allium’s airy eight-inch seed head adds a nice touch to a fireplace mantel or other site in your home.

Allium aflatunense ‘Purple Sensation’ generates bright purple blooms and grows about two feet high by eight inches wide. Its seedhead is particularly attractive right after blooming because the ripening seeds are deep green.

Certain varieties of Papaver somniferum, such as Hungarian breadseed poppies and Lauren’s grape breadseed poppy.

Hungarian breadseed poppies come in a variety of remarkable colors, including pink, purple, blue, and white. The seeds can be used for breads, cakes, muffins and other baked goods.

Their large rounded seedheads display an attractive flat rosette at the top.

Lauren’s grape breadseed poppy, name for Fort Collins garden designer Lauren Springer Ogden, produces four-inch velvety, deep purple blooms and grows about three feet high.

Poppies bloom in the summer and self-sow freely if you let them, so be prepared for an influx.

After you’ve enjoyed all these plants during the growing season, display the seed heads around your house, such as on a fireplace mantel, table, or dresser.

The Accidental Garden

A plethora of cucumber vines, plus a couple of pepper plants, have taken over my compost pile.

In late May/early June (prime planting time), I took a vacation. I returned June 12 and, a day later, came down with a nasty case of stomach flu whose effects lingered for a couple of weeks.

Needless to say, all this activity destroyed my summer vegetable planting timetable.  So I decided to forego planting seeds, went out to buy a tomato plant, and hoped for the best.

Before long, I noticed small cucumber vines growing in my compost pile. Then a few pepper plants.

So I watched the pile to see what would happen. As of late July, I have three small round cucumbers—not a lot, given all the vine activity, but it’s something, nonetheless. These babies likely came from seeds of the round cucumbers that I planted three or four years ago.

A small round cucumber peeks out beneath the mass of vines.

As for the pepper plants, they probably sprouted from seeds of peppers that I bought at the store in past years. They currently have little bitty buds on them.

The tomatoes, planted intentionally, aren’t as mature as some of my neighbors’, but that’s to be expected.

Then in my strawberry patch, some Swiss chard popped up from previous plantings.

Swiss chard has reseeded from previous years’ plantings.

The Swiss chard tastes fine as long as I don’t let it grow too large. As for the cucumbers, they’re too small and hard to harvest yet. And the pepper plants still have a long way to go.  Given Colorado’s short growing season, I’m not holding out much hope for the peppers.

So if you ever want an easy science experiment, just let some of those little seedlings stay in your compost pile and other garden areas to see what happens.

8/10/2022 Update: Last week, I tasted one of the cucumbers. It wasn’t bitter, but it wasn’t very tasty either. So I didn’t add it to my salad.

Fall 2022 Update: I ended getting several nice green peppers, as well as one fairly decent cantaloupe from my volunteers.

What to Do with All Those Pine Cones

These four plucky gnomes reduced the stray pine cone population in Larimer County, Colorado, while providing holiday whimsy. My friend’s gnome is on the far left; mine is on the far right. If I had a day job, I wouldn’t quit it to pursue a career in gnome-making.

Are you one of those gardeners who has a pine tree with a gazillion cones? Although those cones are beautiful, they can make a mess and even pose a fire hazard.

So what can you do with them?

The Garbage Garage at the Larimer County, Colorado, Landfill has an answer: Make pine cone gnomes.

Yesterday a friend and I attended a Garbage Garage class facilitated by Cindy Tunney, Larimer County education assistant. Cindy even provided five-inch pine cones from her own yard. We industrious crafters created our gnomes in about an hour.

If you would like to make your own gnome, here’s some information:

What you’ll need. A pine cone; felt for the hat and feet; beads or pom-poms for the nose; pom-poms or other trim for decorating the hat; one 12-inch pipe cleaner for bending the hat; a lid from a frozen juice can for the base; yarn for the beard; cardboard for hat and feet patterns and for winding the beard yarn; scissors; measuring tape; and a glue gun.

Making the hat. The hat is the most complicated part of the project. All 4 One Home provides one of the better hat-making descriptions I’ve seen, but you’ll need to adjust the size of the hat, depending on the circumference of your pine cone. After you’ve made a pattern and cut your hat triangle out of felt, glue the 12-inch pipe cleaner vertically on the inside of the hat triangle before gluing the hat together. The pipe cleaner should start at the pointy end of the hat and run to the bottom. Any extra length can be wrapped around the pine cone at the hat’s base to secure the hat to the pine cone. The pipe cleaner will enable you to bend the hat a funky angles. If you want, you can add a contrasting strip of felt around the base of the hat, a pom-pom at the point, and other baubles for decoration.

Making the beard. After you position the hat on the pine cone, cut a piece of cardboard about six inches wide and as tall as the space between the base of the hat and the bottom of the pine cone. If you have a five-inch pine cone, for example, the distance from the base of the hat to the bottom of the cone will likely be 3.5 to 4 inches. Holding the cardboard so the six-inch side is parallel to the ground, wrap the yarn vertically around the cardboard 20 to 25 times, depending on the thickness of the yarn. Cut the end of the yarn. Then cut a separate piece that’s twice as long as the short side of the cardboard. Insert that piece under the looped yarn at the top edge of the cardboard and tie the yarn together. If possible, the inserted piece should hang evenly from each side of your knot so that the ends can be incorporated into the rest of the beard. Now insert your scissors along the bottom edge of the cardboard and cut through the loops. You should have some semblance of a beard, which you can trim later. Using your glue gun, fasten the beard to the pine cone at the base of the hat.

Making the nose and feet. Glue a pom-pom or bead at the base of the hat and over the center of the beard to make the nose. For the feet, cut a heart-shaped piece of felt. Glue the heart to the juice can lid so the humpy end of the heart extends over the edge of the lid. Then glue the feet and lid to the bottom of the pine cone.

Adding finishing touches. Trim the beard so you can see the gnome’s feet. Fluff it appropriately. Glue on other enhancements as you see fit.

If gnomes aren’t your thing, Craftaholics Anonymous offers 25 other pine cone crafts that you can tackle.

What if you don’t have a pine tree, but want to make gnomes and other treasures? Check around your neighborhood. If you find a pine tree, be sure to ask the owner’s permission before harvesting any cones.

If you live in Fort Collins, Colorado, don’t take cones from the city’s parks and other properties. It’s illegal. If you live in other municipalities, contact the city or county before foraging on their land.

As a last resort, you can buy pine cones on Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace, as well as at craft stores and other retail outlets.

Thank you for reading my blog over the years. I wish you the happiest of holidays. I’ll write to you again in March 2022.

Talking Trash at the Garbage Garage

A milk-jug skeleton and fish greet visitors as they enter the Garbage Garage at the Larimer County Landfill.

Gardeners are born recyclers. Some of us toss fruit and vegetable scraps into compost piles. Others start seedlings in egg cartons or use old tires as flower planters.  Still others are endlessly creative when using old materials for whimsical garden décor.

So imagine my excitement when I discovered The Garbage Garage at the Larimer County Landfill here in Colorado.

The Garbage Garage, established in 2003, educates consumers about reducing, reusing and recycling waste.  Its drop-in hours are 10am to 2pm Tuesday through Friday.  The garage also offers free tours and activities.

Earlier this month, I attend a DIY Natural Cleaners workshop, complete with recipes, at the garage. My fellow attendees and I learned how to make non-hazardous household cleaners from vinegar, baking soda, alcohol, castile soap and other everyday solutions.  Cleaning’s a lot easier when you have a couple of all-purpose cleansers on hand instead of one cleaner for the bathroom bowl, another for windows, another for countertops, still another for laundry, etc.  And think about it—you later have to dispose of all those containers, some of which hold relatively toxic liquids.

Cindy Tunney, Larimer County education assistant, pours Borax for workshop participant Abby Chemers as Cindy teachers Abby how to make laundry detergent pellets.

The garage offers a range of activities for all ages, especially children. Kids can, for example, participate in the Recycling Relay, Where Does it Go Game, Trash Art, and my personal favorite, Making Methane.

An educational display challenges visitors to determine whether certain everyday items are recyclable or disposable.

If you’re in the area and would like to check it out, visit the Garbage Garage at 5887 S Taft Hill Road in Fort Collins.  Or take a look at the garage’s Facebook page.

Multiply Your Perennials Through Division

After you’ve dug holes for new plants, move mulch away from the mother plant and dig out the rootball, keeping as many roots as possible.

Suppose you have a few empty spots in your garden that you want to fill with perennials, bulbs or grasses.  You run to the nursery and buy more plants, right?

Not necessarily.  You may already have plants that you enjoy and would like to spread around.  Why not propagate them on your own?

Perennials, bulbs and grasses come back every year, and they often reproduce on their own through reseeding.

But if your plants don’t reseed, don’t worry.  There are other means for propagating them, such as by taking cuttings and rooting them, or by division.

Rooting cuttings requires skill and patience.  Division doesn’t.  I like division.

You can divide grasses, bulbs and a slew of perennials, such as agastache, bee balm, coneflower, penstemon, catmint, candytuft, veronica, yucca, bleeding heart, coneflower, dianthus, Joe Pye weed, sedum and Shasta daisies, just to name a few.

Notice all of the roots on the plant chunk to the left once the mother plant has been sawed in two. That’s what you want so the new plant can get a healthy start.

But there are also perennials that don’t divide well.  They’re typically plants with large taproots, such as prairie winecups and wild indigo (Baptisia australis), or plants with several stems rising from a single crown, such as peony. 

University of Minnesota Extension offers an outstanding worksheet on individual perennials with specifics on when and how to divide each one.

So, what’s the process for dividing?  It’s basically the same, whether you’re dividing perennials, bulbs or grasses.

Insert the baby plants into your pre-dug holes, backfill, and gently snug the soil around the base of the plants.

Step 1.  Dig holes for where you want your new plants to go after you’ve divided the mother perennial.  Once the mother perennial is out of the ground, it’s important to replant the chunks quickly so roots don’t dry out.

Step 2.  Clear mulch away from the mother perennial and carefully dig up the rootball, preserving as many roots as possible.

Step 3.  Separate the rootball into two or more chunks, making sure that each chunk has plenty of roots attached.  Sometimes the rootball will fall into pieces on its own.  Other times, you’ll have to saw it apart.

Step 4.  Place each chunk into its pre-dug hole and backfill the hole with a mixture of soil and compost, in most cases.  For plants that prefer lean soil, leave out the compost.

Water and mulch the baby plants. I also water after mulching to hold the mulch in place in case of windy weather.

Step 5.  Water the new plants and add mulch.  I also water after mulching to help hold the mulch in place.

One more thing:  Don’t divide plants when they’re in bloom.  The need to use their energy for establishing new roots, not for producing flowers.

Besides giving you more plants for your money, division is actually good for the health of your plants.  Why?  Because the new plants have more space for roots to grow, soak up nutrients from the soil, and absorb water.

Spring is an ideal time for dividing most plants.  Why not give a try soon?

Intimations of Autumn

Tiger eyes sumac’s foliage is stunning, but usually short-lasting. This year is an exception.

Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower.  Albert Camus

Fall showcases nature at its most breathtaking.  Reds, oranges, and golds of turning foliage combine with vivid late-season bloomers.  This fall, in particular, is delightful.

Tiger eyes sumac (Rhus typhina ‘Bailtiger’ Tiger Eyes) is outdoing itself right now.  In some autumns, I’ve seen it barely turn red before it’s already dropping its branches.  But this year, this show stopper’s leaves and branches are hanging on, creating a remarkable display.

Pawnee Buttes will soon look like it’s on fire as more of its foliage turns red. Sonoran Sunset agastache blooms complement the sand cherry’s fall color.

Pawnee Buttes sand cherry (Prunus besseyi) is just starting to turn red and won’t reach its peak until after tiger eyes has dropped its branches.

Serviceberries (Amelanchier), including autumn brilliance and regent, are also just beginning their transitions.  Autumn brilliance will turn a fiery orange-red, while regent will complement it with more muted reddish-gold foliage.

Autumn purple ash (Fraxinus americana ‘Autumn Purple’) is showing off deeply colored leaves.  It makes me sad to look at them, though, knowing that the emerald ash borer could eventually destroy many of these magnificent hardwoods.  You may have noticed that many nurseries have stopped selling ashes.

Regent serviceberry’s reddish-gold leaves provide a welcome contrast to the fiery orange-red leaves of tiger eyes sumac and autumn brilliance serviceberry.

Lower to the ground, gayfeather (Liatris spicata) displays its multi-colored foliage, which reminds me of the outstanding colors that the bluestem grasses exhibit this time of year.  Meanwhile, plumbago (Ceratostigma plumbaginoides) adds red foliage to its already beautiful blue blooms and copper seed heads.

Even Angelina sedum (Sedum rupestre ‘Angelina’) is getting into the act.  Her chartreuse summer foliage is morphing into its fall/winter colors of red and orange, which will last all winter long.

If you don’t have enough stunning fall foliage in your garden, consider adding some of these plants.  Other favorites you might include for Colorado’s growing conditions are autumn gold maidenhair tree (Ginkgo biloba ‘Autumn Gold’), bigtooth maple (Acer grandidentatum), western chokecherry (Prunus virginiana melanocarpa), Peking cotoneaster (Cotoneaster acutifolius), golden currant (Ribes aureum and Ribes odoratum), and bloody cranesbill (Geranium sanguineum).

Wild Things, You Make my Heart Sing

The branches of Tina dwarf crabapple veer haphazardly, creating a wild and crazy look.

Have you ever wanted to throw a little wild and crazy into your garden to complement all your tidy, symmetrical blooms?  Just to cut loose a little?

If so, there are a number of whimsical choices. Consider Lydian dwarf broom, tumbleweed onion, Tina dwarf crabapple, or Harry Lauder’s walking stick.  And if you want to venture into downright weird territory, you can always add a few succulents or even create an entire succulent garden.

Here are a few of my favorite wild and crazies:

The mop-like growth habit of Genista lydia ‘Bangle’ resembles that of the popular fiber optic grass. But unlike fiber optic grass, Bangle is cold-hardy.

Lydian dwarf broom. Genista lydia ‘Bangle’, a relatively new introduction, is a shorter, more compact version of the conventional Genista lydia.  However, both are dwarf brooms.

Bangle grows about 1 to 2 feet high and wide, and produces a brilliant display of golden yellow blooms each spring.  Personally, I like her even better when she’s out of bloom because I enjoy the scruffy look of her foliage.

Whether you plant conventional Genista lydia or bangle, plant it in full sun and watch it closely during to first season to determine how much water it needs.  Once established, Genistas are remarkably drought-tolerant.

Note that Genistas are notoriously difficult to transplant, but if you’re careful, you can pull it off.  I’ve successfully transplanted six and lost only one (which I was transplanting a second time).  I plant them in a mix of soil, compost and sand.

Tumbleweed onion (Allium schubertii) looks like something from Star Wars.  This funky plant sends out shoots from the center with tiny rose-purple blooms scattered here and there.  It screams, “Wake up and take a look at me!”  I’ve ordered some for planting this fall.

Tumbleweed onion grows 1-2 feet tall and about 1.5 feet wide with heads 9 to 12 inches in diameter.

Tina dwarf crabapple (Malus sargentii ‘Tina’) is an ideal tree for small yards.  Tina grows about 6 to 8 feet high and wide, is drought-tolerant, and looks like a wedding bouquet when she blooms In the spring.  The bright red buds contrast beautifully against the white blooms.  Then tiny crabapples come along in the summer and hang on during the winter.

Tina’s branches go every which way, giving the tree an appealing, offbeat look.  Although Tina’s head is grafted onto a standard, the grafting isn’t noticeable once Tina’s branches start spreading because they dip below the grafted area.

Harry Lauder’s walking stick (Corylus avellana ‘Contorta’) is a contorted, deciduous woody shrub that offers architectural interest in the garden. Harry will grow 8 to 10 feet high and wide.

I don’t see one often, which leads me to believe that either Harry is difficult to grow or that gardeners find him so ugly that they don’t want to plant him.  He’s reportedly a very slow grower.  All the same, Harry is useful if you want to add uniqueness to your garden.

An amazing Harry Lauder specimen used to grow at the entrance of Alameda Wholesale Nursery, but it’s not there anymore.  So if you want to meet Harry in person, you’ll likely need to visit a botanic garden.

Succulents, which include cacti, are the very definition of other-worldliness, and many are beautiful.  If you plant them outside along Colorado’s Front Range, make sure they’re hardy to USDA Zone 5.

Zone 5 cold-hardy succulents include red false yucca (Hesperaloe parviflora), Angelina sedum, blue spruce sedum, autumn joy sedum, ice plants (Delosperma), and white sands giant claret cup cactus (Echinocereus).

Be sure to avoid myrtle spurge (Euphorbia myrsinites) because it’s classified as a noxious weed in Colorado.

 

Meet Bob

This is Bob. He’s not just a pretty face. You can grind his berries up to make a meat rub, to sprinkle on hummus and salads, or to make sumac red lemonade.

One morning in early July, I gazed out my patio door and noticed a small reddish blob smack in the middle of my tiger eyes sumac foliage.  When I went out to investigate, I found that Tiger Eyes had given birth to Bob.

My tiger eyes (Rhus typhina ‘Bailtiger’ Tiger Eyes) is about four years old.  So apparently, she has reached sufficient maturity to produce clusters of drupes, known as “bobs.”  My tree is currently 5 feet high by 4.5 feet high, and will reportedly grow up to 6 feet high and wide.  Bob, on the other hand, is 4 inches high.  He’s an only child.

You can see Bob peeking out of the center of Tiger Eyes. Next year, he’ll likely have brothers and sisters.

 

Tiger eyes is late to leaf out (early May in Fort Collins), but when it does, it creates a dazzling display of lacy golden leaves that turn orange/red in the fall.  You can use it as a specimen, accent, or even as a hedge.  It’ll grow in both full sun and part shade.

Because the plant suckers gently, I plant it in unamended heavy clay soil to discourage suckering.  I also don’t water it unless it looks particularly droopy.  You’ll read all kinds of advice online about keeping it watered, but I’ve found that this plant is incredibly xeric.  I’ve got one growing in the rock bed at the side of my house.  It gets no supplemental water, but it does just fine, as long as it has good drainage.

The suckers are easy to dig up for removal.  Because tiger eyes is patented until 2024 (20 years from its introduction date), it’s currently illegal to transplant the suckers.

About three years ago, borers attacked two of my tiger eyes sumacs.  On one sumac, the borers went into the base of the main trunk.  So I cut the plant down and planted the root ball in a pot for a few months to see what would happen.  Eventually, leaves and stems began emerging from the root ball, so I planted the root ball back into my garden, where the new plant has taken off.  Other than the borer attacks, my sumacs have been trouble-free.

Getting back to Bob, I should point out that he has culinary uses.  You can clean, dry, and grind up his berries to make a spice rub for lamb, fish and chicken.  You can also sprinkle the ground berries on salad or hummus.  These little orbs are loaded with antioxidants.

You can even use Bob’s berries to make sumac red lemonade.  Check out the recipe in Farmers’ Almanac.

So as you can tell, Bob isn’t just a pretty face.  He’s an important nutrition provider for humans.  And although his berries aren’t a favorite among wild life, they still provide food for survival.

Is it Time to Fine-tune your Landscape?

Angelina sedum (yellow in foreground) and purple sensations allium add pops of color to the spring landscape. Notice tulip foliage that emerged from blue Veronica pectinata ground cover, which provides a carpet for spring bulbs.

In Colorado, it typically takes a good three years for a new landscape to take off.  At that point, you may notice aspects of the garden that need addressing.  Examples include coloration and bloom times, as well as hardiness, sunlight, and maintenance concerns.

Coloration.  How’s the color balance in your garden, especially in the spring, when plants often don’t bloom as long as they do later in the season?  In early- to mid-spring, for instance, I noticed that my front yard was heavy with purples, blues, and whites, thanks to little Trudy catmint (purple), blue avena grass, Veronica pectinata (blue), Pawnee Buttes sand cherry, and serviceberries (whites).  I realized that I needed to add some pops of brighter colors, such as yellows and reds.  So I planted Angelina sedum (yellow) in a few strategic spots.  I also planted fuchsia and coral tulip bulbs.  Just a few vivid plants make the garden more exciting.

Bloom Times.  Bulbs are great fillers in early and mid-spring, when other plants are just beginning to wake up.  Fortunately, Colorado has an ideal climate for most bulbs.  Add some Corydalis solida, daffodils, dwarf iris, tulips or allium, to name just a few.  I’ve discovered that purple sensations alliums, which bloom during the second and third weeks of May in Fort Collins, deliver tall lollipops of violet-purple after most tulips have faded.  Pair your bulbs with low-growing evergreen groundcovers, such as Veronica pectinata or white candytuft (Iberis sempervirens), so blooms will have a lush, colorful carpet from which to emerge.

Sunlight Issues.  You may discover that some of your plants need more sun or shade than you originally thought.  Spring is a great time for plant shuffling.  After four years in my home, I decided to move my autumn brilliance serviceberry tree because: (1) It would likely grow faster if it weren’t so shaded by the next-door neighbor’s large honey locust tree; and (2) I needed more shade in front of a southeast-facing bedroom window.  So I uprooted my serviceberry (a much easier job than I expected) and moved it in front of the bedroom window.  Then I planted a compact merlot redbud tree in the area where the serviceberry originally stood.  The redbud will likely appreciate more shade than the serviceberry did.

Hardiness Issues.  You’ve been so conscientious, reading the plant descriptions before buying and installing your plants.  Heck, some of them are even Plant Select winners, so they’re sure to work well in your garden, right?  Well, not always.

For example, Coral Canyon twinspur performed like a champ for two seasons, then up and died.  I had planted it before when I lived in Denver, and it lived only one season.  So I’m done with twinspur.

Mojave sage (Salvia pachyphylla), another highly touted plant, has gorgeous silver-blue foliage.  I planted three.  Each year for three years, I replaced one to two plants because they just couldn’t deal with our cold winters.  Now, three splendid blue avena grasses reside where Mojave sage did so poorly.

If plants keep dying on you, either move them to new locations or simply replace them with something else.  Don’t be like me.  I clung to Mojave sage longer than I should have.

Maintenance Issues.  You may find that some plants require more maintenance than you’re willing to give them.  Blanket flower and coreopsis are two prime examples.  They’re lovely flowers, but you have to deadhead them every 15 minutes.  What’s worse is that the blanket flower seed heads are pointy, so you have to wear gloves to avoid getting poked.

Some gardeners won’t grow roses because they don’t want to prune and deadhead them.  I understand.  However, roses vary in their neediness for care.  For example, purple rain roses die back like crazy and require a lot of pesky pruning in the spring.  Red Meidiland roses, on the other hand, don’t die back nearly as much, so pruning isn’t as labor intensive.

While there’s still time to plant, consider fine-tuning your landscape by moving plants around or installing new ones.  What till fall, however, to plant spring-blooming bulbs.

Chihuly on View at Kew

Chihuly’s iconic Summer Sun brightens the walkway in front of the Palm House at Kew Gardens.

During a visit to Kew Gardens near London earlier this month, I was delighted to discover a Reflections on Nature exhibit by renowned American glass artist Dale Chihuly.

Some pieces, such as the iconic Summer Sun and Red Reeds, appeared at Denver Botanic Gardens in 2014.  Those and other familiar pieces showed up at Kew, as well, along with other, newer pieces.

Besides displaying Chihuly’s work among plants, Kew Gardens presented an extensive variety of additional works in its Shirley Sherwood Gallery.

The show runs from April 13 to October 27, 2019.

Chihuly expertly weaves his Green Hornets and Gold Waterdrops sculptures among palm fronds in Kew’s Temperate House.

Blossom-shaped bowls delight visitors at Kew Gardens’ Shirley Sherwood Gallery.